• "The costume of women should be suited to her wants and necessities. It should conduce at once to her health, comfort, and usefulness." ---- Amelia Bloomer

     

    Life and Writings of Amelia Bloomer, 1895, p. 81

  • A Brief History of the Women's Liberation Movement in Fashion

     

    Fashion serves as the interface between body and world, "weaving" together the personal and the public sphere, and "traversing" through material life and the imagination of consumption. Fashion is woven into the history of the women's liberation movement.

     

    The true modern concept of women's fashion begins in the 20th. From the Renaissance to the early 20th century, women's roles in society were often seen as extensions or accessories to men.

     

    At that time, people were obsessed with the opulent, Victorian-style court fashion. Almost every woman wore a corset. Girls began wearing them as early as 11 or 12 years old, cinching their waists tightly to accentuate a fuller bust. While this greatly catered to the male gaze, it severely impacted women's health.

     

    The feminist awakening in the fashion world began with the departure from corsets. In 1906, French designer Paul Poiret created a corset-free dress for his pregnant wife. This dress featured fluid lines and innovative tailoring that celebrated the natural curves of a woman's body, liberating women from the restrictive cages of corsets and crinolines. In 1911, inspired by the attire of Indian dancers, Paul Poiret designed a pair of loose, flowing trousers. This marked the beginning of the era of informal trousers in women's fashion. It's important to note that, in the 19th century, French law explicitly prohibited women from wearing trousers.

     

    The widespread acceptance of trousers as a fashionable garment for women can be credited to Coco Chanel. Drawing inspiration from men's tailored trousers, Chanel designed some of the earliest women's pants. She also introduced knee-length, low-waist skirts, encouraging women to confidently show their calves. These low-waist skirts quickly became popular among young women in Paris.

     

    After World War II, there was a renewed longing for refined and elegant dresses. However, returning to the restrictive and health-damaging garments of the past was out of the question. This led to the creation of Dior's New Look. The collection abandoned cumbersome crinolines and constricting corsets, embracing natural curves through thoughtful tailoring. The result was a range of garments that were both sophisticated and comfortable, celebrating elegance without compromising health. With this groundbreaking collection, Dior rose to fame. From that moment on, women’s allure was no longer confined by rigid crinolines and corsets. Fashion began to serve and celebrate the natural beauty of women.

     

    In the 1960s and 1970s, the women’s liberation movement resonated with the civil rights movement, countercultural movement, and anti-war movement of the same era, merging into a vast and dynamic political landscape. Its core aim was to eliminate gender inequality. The movement called for a transformation of male-centric political systems, seeking to redefine power dynamics and shift the focus of political discourse.

     

    For example, in the United States, some feminists strongly opposed any attempts to regulate individual clothing choices or bodily presentation. They wore loose-fitting jeans and oversized overalls, paired with men’s T-shirts or work shirts, along with men’s work boots or sneakers. They also rejected makeup, jewelry, and traditional hairstyles.

     

    During this period, Yves Saint Laurent introduced the iconic "Le Smoking" suit, revolutionizing women's attire by making trousers acceptable in formal settings. This groundbreaking design sent a powerful message: the fundamental goal of feminism is achieving equal rights with men. If men could wear certain types of clothing, women should naturally have the same freedom.

     

    Fashion in the 1970s also showcased the female body with unprecedented allure. Clothing became soft and form-fitting, celebrating natural curves with little to no need for supportive undergarments. Women were liberated—quite literally! They embraced trousers, from pantsuits to full-on tailored suits. By the late 1970s, designer jeans had become widely accepted for all occasions, blurring the lines between casual and formal wear.

     

    As society evolves, the expression of women's liberation through fashion has become increasingly diverse. Fashion has always been a powerful tool for women to challenge the world, and now, dressing in a way that reflects one's personal preferences is itself an act of liberation.

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    Victorian-style Women's Fashion

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    Skirts Designed by Paul Poiret

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    Trousers Designed by Paul Poiret

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    Women's Trousers Designed by Chanel

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    Parisian Women in Low-Waist Skirts

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    Dior New Look

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    Model Janice Dickinson in Jeans, 1979

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    Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking

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    Vogue, January 15, 1971